Destinations are over-rated

Yes, it's been a long while. And I have now become accustomed to apologizing for my absence. And for those readers who did not notice my comeback here or here, the reason why I was away - was the launch of my debut novel, 'Coming Up On The Show... The travails of a news trainee.'  The readers have received it well and it secured a spot on the Landmark Bestsellers list as well. So anyway, that's why the travel blog has been languishing.

Plus the rains lashing the Philippines have not exactly been conducive to travel either. Many a weekend plan was disposed off after the rain gods played spoil sport time and time again. This last weekend though, me and the husband decided to go on that elusive road trip, come rain or shine. Yes, we had Typhoon Mina hanging over our heads and most parts of the country had a Signal 1, 2 or 3 hoisted over it. But sometimes even drives in the rain can be totally worth it as this trip proved.

We were off to La Union - around 4 - 5 hours away from Manila by road. It is a surfers destination and as both of us had never been on a board before, we knew that this weekend would be all about seeing and absorbing.

Like this woman here who has decided that the soft sand is where she would be rather than slamming her rib-cage into a hard board as she attempted to ride the waves 

This man gave us some nail-biting moments. As the waves rose up and down and he struggled to keep his balance, we kept wondering, 'Will he? Won't he?'

And then there were the pros. You can see from his confident stride that he's the kind who is defeated by no wave! 

And finally after three rain-drenched days at the beach, where we overdosed on languid swimming in the resort pool and the best of hospitality, it was time to drive home. The six-hour drive back was full of sights like these. Through a rain-spattered windshield we saw people braving the rains to get on with their lives.

And noticed that rain does not stop the faithful either as they pile into trikes and jeepneys to head in the direction of church spires and pulpits on a rainy Sunday afternoon. 

And then of course there are the sights like these.  A smiling ladybug trundling down a country road as it always has for years. 

If the journey is this good, it makes you think that destinations are over-rated. What say?

Manila – An old filigree with new threads

The first thought that struck me as my cab rolled out of Manila airport, is just how normal Manila looks. For all the hype of being the capital of one of the most beautiful island nations in the world, Manila is far removed from the coconut tree lined, sandy beach you might be expecting. It is also not the shiny Southeast Asian city like glistening Hong Kong or spotless Singapore. Manila is just Manila.

Wide roads with the latest cars making way for the ubiquitous jeepneys…Skyscrapers with Mac Donald’s in the ground floor, next to single storied buildings with small eateries offering Inasal chicken and garlic rice. To the traveler, Manila is a city that is moving forward to embrace the future while the past still hangs around, as an old friend, you run into now and then.

Over the first few days, I roamed around getting to know the Philippines and its people. I realized that they really like malls here. There are roads that cut through these gigantic structures that are easily a few kilometers across with a different township on either side. I’ve heard stories of mall goers who’ve forgotten where they parked their car and had to spend three hours looking for them in the vast parking areas. Mall’s are a serious part of soaking up Manila. And it’s O.K even if you’re not a big shopper. They are great places for some uncomplicated people watching as well. Malls are to Manila what parks and gardens are to us back home in India. They are places to catch up, to relax, and to have relaxed family lunches and all the walking around gives you some serious exercise as well.

And exercise is vital, here of all places where different kinds of eateries are poised at every corner tempting you, as you stroll by. Manila is a veritable paradise for the foodie. From traditional Filipino cuisine to food stalls boasting of all sorts of fare from Spanish, Mexican, French, Japanese and every other country in the world, it’s hard to live in Manila without some yummy in your tummy…every day.

But the best of all are the people, the strangers who I’ve encountered here. I’ve traveled by the metro during the city’s weekday rush hour and never have I been jostled. I've caught Taxis without knowing a smattering of Tagalog and had long conversations with drivers about different cultures. From the security personnel asking to check your bag at the malls to the woman who just bought the last donut, all of them have a smile on their lips and a greeting. The day Manila convinced me that I can still afford to believe in the goodness of man, was the day me and my husband were stopped by a cop for a wrong turn, who then proceeded to apologize to me for having disturbed us on our drive!

Sometimes Manila reminds me a little of Delhi with its broad roads, Mumbai with its bay and Bangalore with its traffic jams. And then sometimes, I see the city for what it really is to someone who’s so far from her country, it’s a city that’s all heart and open arms.

Footloose in Palawan

I confess! The only thing I knew about the Philippines or cared to read about for a very long time was about Imelda Marcos’s vast shoe collection. Little did I know that I had a very different kind of Filipino education in store for me in my future! So come circa 2009, finding myself in Manila, I realized that it was time to discover the nation for myself and perhaps uncover a few of its enigmatic islands. Now being a nation made up of 7,107 islands, it’s inevitable that the Philippines can boast of beaches of almost every kind. From those that seem to be hand crafted by the Creator for diving and snorkeling to surfers haven. Topping the tourist’s must-see list in the archipelago is Boracay. Yet the more I looked at travel information to the beach known for its powdery white sands and amazing water, the more I felt like heading to another lesser known destination- Palawan. Located in the south of the Philippines, Palawan was touted as a collection of 1,780 islands with exquisite beaches and foliage, which could be likened to Borneo rather than the Philippines. Two birds with one stone thought I. Next step book flight tickets and make reservations at Club Paradise, a private island eco-resort in Dimakya Island in Northern Palawan.
One of the hardest things of packing for my three nights and four days package tour at Palawan was how I had to voluntarily travel light. Now this gave my husband a lot of glee, as he certainly did not want to be the one lugging the bags around. And giving him this reason to smile was the flight that we had to catch. The Philippines airlines flight to Palawan only allows you to take ten kilograms per person. So swinging our negligible luggage and breezing past security, we finally boarded the quaint looking Bombardier turboprop to Palawan, which promised to take us there in little over an hour. Bagging the window seat certainly worked out in my favour, as flying out through the clouds looming over Manila I was treated to the first glimpse of Palawan. And what a promising one it was, as it was not only the turquoise waters and the white sand that we could see, but also the coral reefs bordering the isles.
One hour after photographs through the cubbyhole which aeroplanes call a window, we touched down at Busuanga airport, one of the airports in Palawan. Walking out of the charming wood paneled airport, our very tropically dressed (read that as orange shorts and a sky blue floral t-shirt) resort guide greeted us. He then promptly bundled us into a Jeepney to drop us to our ferry. Jeepneys, which are open-air oversized jeeps, are used quite a lot in Palawan, which does not have a lot of vehicular traffic, and therefore no tarmac roads. The ride to the ferry was eventful to say the least- dusty, punctuated with sudden bumps and passing by some of the most amazing grasslands with exotic trees and the occasional villager waving at us.
However nothing in any tourist brochure could have prepared us for the first look of the river we were supposed to cross to reach our island destination. Bordered by mangroves on both sides, looking out of the ferry was a surreal experience. An hour-long boat ride on the river and then on the high seas, suddenly the resort guide pointed out the speck in the distance that would be our home for the next three nights. With each bobbing motion of the boat, the anticipation and excitement rose a little bit higher. And finally we were there.
To the background of an island welcome song and the accompaniment of a fresh mango shake, we tiptoed along the narrow ramp of the boat and happily jumped onto the island.
Overwhelmed by the natural beauty of the spot, the first thing we decided to do was soak it up and that too literally. The waters surrounding the island are perfect for swimming and better still snorkeling. The area is known for its coral reefs and the resort made sure that we could enjoy them to the fullest by handing out free snorkeling gear. Call it voyeurism of a different kind if you want, but watching different kinds of vibrantly coloured reef fish swimming around their habitat, blissfully unaware of the humans around is quite thrilling.
However soaking in the warm waters aside, the island is also a great place for trekking. We even chanced upon a monitor lizard while hiking up to the highest point of the isle. Though it frightened the wits out of me, don’t worry the lizard as well as the fruit bats that are in abundance on the resort are not at all interested in the humans that tend to cross their path.
Located at the northern most tip of Palawan, Dimakya is also a great place to plan island hopping trips from as there are quite a few ones that you can explore while you are there. Yet according to me, the best way to enjoy Palawan is by pulling up a lounge chair and losing oneself in the stunning sunset you can see from here.
Time seems to stand still in this paradise at times, but for me it passed much too fast. And on the ferry ride back to traffic lights and zooming cars, all I could think of was the memories of being barefoot in paradise.

The New Indian Express, March 2009